For most people searching for an Explorer 2 fake Rolex, the 42 mm ref. 216570 is the top pick, because it is the reference that replica makers have produced in the largest numbers and the one with the fewest structural traps. The 2021 ref. 226570 comes second, and the older 40 mm ref. 16570 sits third. Those rankings come from five criteria that decide whether an Explorer II replica looks and behaves like the real thing: whether the 24-hour hand works independently, whether the case profile matches the genuine thickness and crown guards, whether the dial printing and lume hold up under a loupe, whether the bracelet and clasp match the reference, and whether the watch is a fixed-bezel GMT rather than a three-hand watch with a decorative fourth hand.
Best Overall: Ref. 216570 (42 mm)
The 216570 launched in 2011 and replaced the long-running 40 mm 16570. It has a fixed steel 24-hour bezel, a date at 3 with no cyclops, and an orange 24-hour hand. Because it stayed in the catalog for a decade, tooling and parts supply are the deepest of any Explorer II generation, which is why replica quality is highest here.
How to Choose the Best Explorer 2 Replica Rolex
- Pros: abundant production, so spare bracelets and dials are easy to source; the orange hand and matte dial are relatively forgiving to copy; 42 mm wears well on most wrists.
- Cons: the larger case makes crown guard and lug shape errors more visible; case thickness is a common giveaway if a low-tier movement is used.
Runner-Up: Ref. 226570 (2021 to present)
The current Explorer II keeps the 42 mm case and orange hand but uses a slimmer case profile and a different movement architecture than the 216570. Replica makers moved quickly on this reference, but the newer case shape means small errors in lug taper and bezel edge finishing are easier to spot next to a genuine watch.
- Pros: newest look, so it reads as a current-production watch; improved bracelet and clasp detailing on better builds.
- Cons: fewer builders produce it, and quality varies more between batches; the slimmer midcase is harder to replicate at low cost.
Third Option: Ref. 16570 (40 mm)
The 16570 ran from 1989 into 2011 and is the classic 40 mm Explorer II, offered in black and white dials. It is the sentimental favorite, but also the oldest design in circulation, which means replica tooling is dated.
- Pros: compact 40 mm case suits smaller wrists; strong vintage appeal; the steel bezel hides minor finishing flaws.
- Cons: older bracelets with hollow end links feel light; aged lume is faked with paint that rarely matches genuine patina; dial font errors are common on this generation.
Criterion One: The 24-Hour Hand and GMT Function
On a genuine Explorer II, the 24-hour hand sets independently of the hour hand, which is the entire point of the watch. Cheap replicas use a plain three-hand automatic movement and attach the fourth hand to the hour hand, so it spins with the time instead of holding position. Test this before anything else: pull the crown to the setting position and confirm the 24-hour hand moves on its own. A watch that fails this test is not an Explorer II in any meaningful sense.
Criterion Two: Case, Crown Guards, and Bezel
The Explorer II case has a specific midcase height, lug taper, and crown guard profile. Ask for the measured case thickness rather than the advertised number, and compare the crown guards to reference photos: they should flow into the case without a hard step. On the bezel, the engraved 24-hour numerals should be crisp, evenly spaced, and filled consistently. Blurry or shallow engraving is the most frequent tell on budget builds.
Criterion Three: Dial, Lume, and Date
Look at the dial under magnification. The coronet, the text lines, and the minute track should be sharp, with no ink bleed and no crooked alignment at 12. Lume is the second check: genuine explorers glow blue on later references, and an uneven or weak glow points to cheap paint. The date window should sit square at 3 with correct magnification, and the date wheel font should match the reference you are buying, since mismatched date wheels are a very common shortcut.
Criterion Four: Bracelet and Clasp
The Oyster bracelet should articulate without rattling, and the clasp should close with a solid click and no side play. Check the end link fit against the lugs: gaps here are visible from arm's length. Steel grade matters too, since 904L-type alloys have a slightly warmer tone than 316L, though the difference is subtle in photos and obvious in hand.
Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist
- Confirm the 24-hour hand sets independently.
- Measure case thickness and compare with the reference spec.
- Inspect bezel engraving depth and numeral spacing.
- Check dial printing, date alignment, and lume evenness under light.
- Flex the bracelet and test the clasp for play.
- Verify the crown screws down with several full turns.
- Ask for a video, not just stills, since GMT hand behavior only shows in motion.
Which One Fits Your Habits
If you want one watch to wear daily and you care about parts availability, take the 216570. If you want the current catalog look and can inspect the watch closely before buying, take the 226570. If you have a smaller wrist or you prefer the older proportions, take the 16570 and accept that dial and lume accuracy will be the hardest part to get right. Whichever you choose, the 24-hour hand test and the case thickness measurement do more to separate a serious build from a costume piece than any marketing description.