Answer first: judge the case, not the label
If you are shopping for a fake Cartier Tank Allongée, the case is the one decision that matters most. The Allongée is defined by an elongated rectangle, so a replica lives or dies on its length to width ratio, its thickness, and the way the lugs flow into the strap. A seller who sends dated photos of the exact watch you will receive beats a seller with a long description of "1:1 quality." Ask for those photos before you pay, and treat a refusal as your answer.
What to look for
Case shape and finishing
Measure the ratio, not the millimeter count. On an elongated Tank the case length commonly runs about 1.8 to 2.2 times the width. A case that reads square in photos is the wrong shape. Check the polish on the bezel against the flanks and make sure the transition line between brushed and polished surfaces is straight and consistent around the curve.
Dial print and numerals
Roman numerals should sit square on their own baselines with even spacing and no crowding against the minute track. Cartier places a hidden signature inside one of the numerals, and a careful replica puts it where the genuine reference does instead of stamping it wherever there is room. Look for "Swiss Made" at the bottom, correct spelling, and a printed track that meets the numerals without overlap. Thick, blurry print is the fastest tell on a cheap build.
Crown and cabochon
The crown should be faceted and set with a blue cabochon that reads as a solid stone rather than a painted dome. Turn the crown and feel for smooth action without grinding. On many fakes the cabochon is glass, which looks flat under direct light and picks up scratches within weeks.
Movement
Tank cases are thin, so the movement choice decides how the watch wears. A hand wound mechanical or a decorated automatic keeps the profile slim and gives the winding feel most buyers expect. Quartz can also be thin and dependable, but a seller who advertises a Swiss automatic at a quartz price is not describing what they ship.
Crystal, strap, and buckle
Sapphire is the baseline expectation because mineral glass scratches and reflects light differently. Strap hardware should be signed and the buckle tone should match the case metal.
Parameter bands worth checking
- Case thickness: commonly under 8 mm on elongated Tank designs, since a tall case slides around the wrist.
- Length to width ratio: roughly 1.8 to 2.2.
- Crystal: sapphire with no color cast under white light.
- Water resistance: treat anything beyond a splash rating as marketing unless the caseback is properly gasketed.
- Weight: a steel case should feel dense for its size, not hollow.
Pitfalls that show up again and again
- Listing photos borrowed from a genuine watch or reused across several sellers.
- No QC photos of the actual unit before shipping.
- Numeral shapes that are close but not correct, especially the X and the VII.
- Cabochon made of glass instead of a synthetic stone.
- Swiss made wording paired with a quartz movement.
- Decorative screws or engraving that does not follow the genuine layout.
- No stated return window and no named shipping method.
FAQ
Is buying a counterfeit legal?
Counterfeit goods involve trademark infringement. Shipments can be seized at import, and reselling one as genuine is a serious offense. Check your local rules before you order anything.
How much should a good replica cost?
Price tracks the movement class and the case work. Compare several sellers offering the same movement type and view unusually low offers with suspicion, since the savings usually come out of the dial, the crystal, or the caseback.
Which version suits a first purchase?
A steel case with a hand wound movement. It wears closest to the original proportions and leaves less room for shortcuts that are visible on the wrist.
Can a jeweler tell?
Often yes, particularly up close through caseback engraving, crown details, and dial print. Buy with that expectation rather than assuming the watch will pass a trained eye.