The short answer: 720.025 v2 is the second revision of a grand complication replica build, and v2 is the version worth asking about because revisions at this tier usually fix what buyers complained about on v1, such as subdial placement, date-change timing, and case thickness. Four criteria decide whether any single example is worth owning: whether the complications work, what base movement sits inside, how the case and dial read at arm's length, and whether anyone in the United States can service it. Run the checklist below against photos, a short video, and the seller's written answers before money moves.
What the 720.025 v2 reference means
Codes like 720.025 come from sellers and workshops, not from a Swiss catalog. They identify which factory built the watch, which batch it came from, and which revision of the case, dial, and movement the seller is holding. A v2 label means the same build was revised at least once. Revision work on a grand complication replica tends to concentrate on the hardest parts to copy: case thickness, subdial spacing, bridge finishing, and the way a calendar or moon phase advances.
Fake Grand Complication 720.025 V9: A Buyer's Guide
These codes are not standardized. A v2 from one seller is not the same watch as a v2 from another. Ask for the factory name, the movement inside, and photos of the caseback with the rotor turned so the balance and gear train are visible. If the seller cannot name the movement, treat the listing as unknown.
Fake Grand Complication 720.025 V8: What the Listing Means
Criterion 1: Do the complications work
A grand complication is defined by functions stacked on one base caliber, so the first test is function, not cosmetics.
fake grand complication 720.025 v10
- Works in your favor: pushers reset with a firm click, the date flips near midnight rather than at noon, the moon phase tracks the calendar correctly, and the hands line up when the chronograph returns to zero.
- Works against you: decorative subdials driven by a printed disc, a date that jumps forward and back inside an hour, a moon phase that advances every 24 hours instead of once per lunar month, and pushers that feel spongy or bind.
Use case: buy only if the seller sends a video showing the date change and the chronograph start, stop, and reset. If the video stops before the reset, assume the reset does not work.
Criterion 2: Base movement and finishing
Most builds in this class run on an Asian automatic or hand-wound base, often a Seagull or a cloned ETA-style caliber, with decoration added for looks.
- Works in your favor: a named, common base caliber that a local watchmaker can source parts for, a beat rate that matches the original, clean perlage or Geneva stripes, blued screws, and an engraved rotor that sits flush.
- Works against you: an unnamed movement, a low beat rate that makes the seconds hand stutter, chrome plating that flakes at the bridge edges, a rotor that wobbles or scrapes the caseback, and any claim of a Swiss movement without a photo of the stamping.
Use case: if you want a daily wearer, pick the build with the common base caliber even if the finishing is plainer. Finishing is cosmetic; a movement that keeps time and takes parts is not.
Criterion 3: Case, dial, and wrist presence
This is where a replica either passes or fails in a room.
- Works in your favor: case proportions that match the original reference, thickness within a millimeter or two of the real watch, applied indices with sharp edges, even lume color across all markers, an anti-reflective coating that kills glare at an angle, and a crown that screws down without grit.
- Works against you: a case that sits too tall on the wrist, printed markers that look flat in daylight, lume that glows green in one marker and blue in another, misaligned date windows, and a bezel or caseback engraving that is shallow or off-center.
Use case: for office wear, prioritize thickness and dial legibility. For a collection piece, prioritize subdial spacing and the finish on the case flanks.
Criterion 4: Service, parts, and returns
- Works in your favor: a seller who offers a written return window, ships with tracking, and can name a US watchmaker who has worked on the same build. Complications need cleaning and oiling, and module parts are the first thing to become scarce.
- Works against you: no warranty terms, no address, pressure to pay outside a traceable method, and a promise that the watch never needs service.
Use case: if you plan to wear the watch often, budget for one service visit within a few years and confirm the watchmaker will touch a replica before you buy.
Red flags to walk away from
- The seller cannot name the movement or the factory.
- Photos are stock images or show a different dial than the listing.
- The date and moon phase are never shown moving.
- Weight and case measurements are refused.
- The price is far below the going rate for the same build, which usually means a lower tier watch with a copied name.
How to verify before you pay
Ask for five things: a timestamped photo, a video of the date change, a video of the chronograph reset, a caseback shot with the rotor moved aside, and the case diameter and thickness in millimeters. A seller who answers all five is a seller worth dealing with. A seller who dodges one is telling you something about the rest of the listing.