Answer first
A fake Pasha 366396 almost always shows itself at the crown assembly. The genuine watch uses a screw-down cap on a chain, and the cap threads, the chain articulation and the cabochon all sit with tight, even tolerance. Copies get the chain weight wrong, use a glued cabochon, or cut the threads so the cap binds after two turns. Check that assembly first, then move to the dial, case back, bracelet and movement.
Prerequisites
- A 10x loupe
- A digital caliper and a gram-accurate scale
- Bright, diffused light and a matte surface
- Factory reference photos of the 366396 for side-by-side comparison
Procedure
- Unscreen the crown cap. Turn it slowly and count the rotations. Genuine caps run smooth for the full travel and seat flush with a clean gap line; fakes grind, sit proud, or stop short.
- Inspect the chain. Hold the cap by the chain and let it hang. Links should move one at a time with no stiffness and no bright plating wear at the joints.
- Check the cabochon. Look at the crown stone under the loupe. Genuine synthetic spinel is set in a metal collet with a crisp seat; fakes sit in glue with a visible ring of adhesive.
- Examine the crystal. Look at the edge from the side. A genuine sapphire sits slightly below the bezel plane with an even bevel and no cloudy edge.
- Read the dial print. Compare the Cartier signature, the numerals and the minute track against a reference photo. Lettering should be sharp, evenly spaced and raised, not flat and slightly blurred.
- Measure the case. Use the caliper across the bezel at 12 to 6 and at 3 to 9, then measure thickness. Compare the numbers to the factory figure for the 366396; fakes commonly run 0.3 to 0.8 mm thick.
- Weigh the watch. A steel Pasha with a full bracelet has a known weight range. A copy usually comes in light because the bracelet links are hollow.
- Study the case back. Check the engraving depth and the reference and serial stamping. Genuine stamps are cut, with square shoulders inside the letters; laser-etched fakes look shallow and rounded.
- Test the bracelet and clasp. Flex each link. Genuine links move without rattle, and the clasp closes with a firm click and no side play.
- Verify the movement. Set the time and watch the seconds hand sweep. Then check the winding feel and the rotor noise when you tilt the watch near your ear.
- Cross-check the paperwork. Match the serial on the case back to the warranty card and the box label. Numbers that do not line up end the inspection.
Common failure points
Fakes of this reference most often fail on three items: the crown chain, the dial print sharpness, and the case back engraving depth. If two of the three are wrong, stop there. Do not rely on the box or papers as proof, since paperwork is the easiest part of a replica to reproduce. Ask for service history and a movement photo before you commit to any purchase.