Buy the movement first, the dial second, and the marketing photos last. On a fake Portugieser Automatic 31, the deciding factor is not the factory nickname repeated in forum threads, but whether the actual watch in front of you runs a proper automatic caliber with a working power reserve, a correctly positioned small seconds subdial at 9 o'clock, and a case that measures close to what the listing promises. Ask for dated QC photos of the exact unit, confirm the diameter and thickness with calipers or a ruler, and request a short video of the movement running and the rotor turning. Any seller who refuses those three things is not worth the transfer fee.
Start with the movement, not the photos
The original layout pairs a small seconds hand at 9 o'clock with a power reserve indicator at 3 o'clock, so the replica needs a movement that can drive both cleanly. Most builds in this category use a decorated Asian automatic, often based on a 2892 style architecture with an added module or a modified rotor bridge. What matters in practice is hand behavior: the seconds hand should sweep smoothly, the crown should wind with light resistance rather than grit, and the power reserve needle should actually move as the mainspring unwinds. If the reserve hand stays frozen at full, the indicator is decorative and the watch will stop overnight.
What the "31" in the listing actually refers to
Sellers use short numbers to mean different things, sometimes a case size, sometimes a factory batch code, sometimes a movement designation. Before you commit, ask directly which one applies. If the number refers to a 31 mm case, expect a small ladies style watch, which is a different product from the 42 mm Portugieser Automatic most buyers picture. Confirm three numbers in writing: case diameter, case thickness, and lug width. These three figures settle more disputes than any factory name.
What to look for: a checklist
- Case size: roughly 42 mm across, about 13.5 to 14.5 mm thick, lug to lug near 50 mm.
- Subdial spacing: small seconds at 9, reserve display at 3, date window at 6 on the models that carry one.
- Dial finish: lacquered or silver plated surface with applied numerals, not printed flat text.
- Hands: leaf shaped, blued or heat treated steel look, not painted blue plastic.
- Crystal: domed sapphire with anti reflective coating, faint blue or purple tint is normal, a heavy mirror glare is not.
- Case back: display back with legible engraving, rotor decorated with circular stripes and perlage on the plates.
- Strap: 20 mm lug width, alligator grain leather, stitching that lines up with the lugs.
- Clasp: folding deployant or pin buckle, check that the tang is not stamped from thin sheet metal.
Parameter bands worth memorizing
- Diameter 41 to 43 mm: wearable on most wrists above 6.5 inches.
- Thickness 13 to 15 mm: anything under 12 mm usually hides a quartz movement or a tiny caliber.
- Power reserve 38 to 70 hours: real world numbers, seven day claims are almost always marketing.
- Weight 90 to 130 grams on leather: too light suggests hollow case construction.
- Water resistance: treat any claim above 30 meters with suspicion on a display back build.
Pitfalls that show up again and again
- Stock photos borrowed from the genuine watch. Request a photo with today's date next to the watch.
- Printed subdials that sit flat instead of recessed rings.
- Date font that is too bold or too tall for the window.
- Rotor that spins loudly or wobbles, a sign of a worn bearing.
- Crown that does not hack the seconds when pulled, which makes setting the time frustrating.
- Strap holes punched off center, a small detail that ruins the look on the wrist.
- Shipping insurance that quietly excludes watches, read the terms before paying.
Questions buyers ask most
Is a power reserve indicator worth paying more for?
Yes, if it works. A functioning indicator tells you the watch is running a genuine automatic with a healthy mainspring. A decorative one is a cosmetic feature that adds cost without adding function.
How do I check the movement before it ships?
Ask for a video showing the seconds hand sweeping, the crown being wound, and the rotor turning while the case back is visible. A short clip answers more than twenty still images.
What size wrist suits the 42 mm case?
Wrists from about 6.5 inches upward carry it comfortably. Under that, the lugs will overhang and the watch will look borrowed.
Should I buy the strap separately?
Often yes. A well made aftermarket leather strap in the correct 20 mm width improves the look more than any other single change.