A sixth generation fake Speedmaster 1957 is the copy that follows the Omega 1957 Trilogy reedition most closely: a 38.6 mm stainless steel case, a steel tachymeter bezel, broad arrow hands, and a hand wound chronograph movement. You confirm the generation by measuring the case, reading the dial printing under magnification, and checking how the chronograph starts, stops, and resets. Earlier generations miss small details such as the tachymeter font, the lug step, or the finish on the pushers.
Prerequisites
- Digital calipers accurate to 0.01 mm
- 10x jeweler loupe
- Precision screwdriver set with a caseback tool
- Kitchen scale that reads in grams
- Printed or on screen reference photos of the Omega 1957 Trilogy Speedmaster
- Clean microfiber cloth and latex gloves
How to Inspect a 6th Generation Speedmaster 1957 Replica
- Place the watch next to reference photos of the genuine 1957 Trilogy on a white surface and match the overall silhouette first.
- Measure the case across the bezel at 3 and 9 o'clock with the calipers and record the number, which should sit at 38.6 mm.
- Measure the lug to lug span and the lug width, then compare both figures against the reference images.
- Inspect the bezel insert with the loupe and check that the tachymeter numerals are steel backed and evenly spaced around the scale.
- Study the dial print at 10x magnification and confirm that the Omega wordmark and the minute track are sharp with no bleeding or double edges.
- Check the broad arrow hands for the correct length, the right shape at the tip, and a flat polished finish with no machine marks.
- Turn the crown and time how many turns it takes to reach a full wind, since a rough or gritty feel points to a lower grade movement.
- Press the top pusher and time how long the chronograph runs before stopping, then reset and confirm the hands snap back to zero in one motion.
- Weigh the watch head on its own and compare the figure to the reference weight, because case material and movement type both affect it.
- Remove the caseback with the tool and identify the movement, looking for the finishing and the bridge layout of a Calibre 1861 type design.
- Wipe the case down, reseat the gasket, and close the caseback by hand before any water contact.
What Separates the 6th Generation From Earlier Copies
- Case profile: the lugs carry a defined step and the bezel sits flush rather than standing proud.
- Dial printing: the older copies show thick, soft text, while the newer version holds thin, crisp strokes.
- Hands: broad arrow hands on earlier copies are often flat or slightly bent, with a dull finish at the tip.
- Pushers: the 6th generation uses a tapered pusher that matches the case finish instead of a generic cylinder.
- Movement: a hand wound chronograph with a smooth reset replaces the quartz or cheap automatic units seen in first and second generation builds.
Mistakes to Avoid
- Judging the watch from seller photos only, since lighting hides dial print and bezel font faults.
- Measuring over the crown instead of the bezel, which inflates the diameter reading.
- Skipping the chronograph reset test, which is the fastest way to expose a low grade movement.
- Opening the caseback without the right tool and scarring the caseback edge.