Answer first
A fake Vacheron Constantin Overseas chronograph is a watch that copies the Overseas chrono line but was not built by Vacheron Constantin in Geneva. The company dates to 1755. The Overseas line started in 1996 as the successor to the 222 and the Phidias.
Two references cover most copies. The 49150 ran from the late 1990s into the 2010s. The 5500V replaced it in 2016. Most current copies target the steel 5500V, reference 5500V/110A-B148.
Real specs to compare against
Start with the spec sheet. Photos hide scale.
- 5500V/110A-B148: steel case, 42.5 mm wide, about 13.7 mm thick, 150 m water resistance.
- Caliber 5200: automatic, column wheel with vertical clutch, 52-hour power reserve, 22K gold rotor, Hallmark of Geneva.
- Dial: three registers, date window, applied Maltese cross at 12 o'clock.
- Case: screw-down crown and screw-down pushers.
- Strap system: quick release with a latch at each lug. Steel bracelet, rubber and leather options.
- 49150: 42 mm case, caliber 1137, based on the Frederic Piguet 1185, about 40 hours of reserve.
Movement tells
- Beat rate does not separate real from fake. The caliber 5200 runs at 4 Hz. The Asian 7750 inside most copies also runs at 4 Hz.
- A ticking second hand means quartz. A real Overseas chronograph is mechanical.
- The 5200 has a 22K gold rotor. Copies use brass or steel with gold plating. Plating wears at the rotor edge.
- Finish on the real movement: Geneva stripes, circular graining, polished screw heads, chamfered bridges. Copies show rough edges and shallow engraving.
- The real rotor carries the Hallmark of Geneva and the reference. Copies cut this with a laser. The line is flat and pale.
- Pusher feel: real pushers have firm springs and a clean reset. Asian 7750 pushers feel light and can stick.
- Power reserve: set the watch down and check. 52 hours points to the caliber 5200. Asian 7750 copies stop near 40 hours.
Case and dial checks
- Bezel notches: real cuts are sharp and even. Copies show rounded edges and uneven gaps.
- Maltese cross at 12: applied, faceted, polished on the real. Copies glue a flat stamp or paint it.
- Date window: real has a crisp frame with square corners. Copies show rounded corners and an off-center date.
- Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both faces. Copies show a blue or purple cast and more glare.
- Lume: real uses Super-LumiNova. Copies glow weak and uneven.
- Caseback: real engraving is deep and sharp. The serial is unique and matches the certificate. Copies repeat one serial across batches.
- Weight: the steel 5500V on a bracelet has heft. Copies run light.
Bracelet and strap checks
- Links: the Overseas bracelet uses half Maltese cross links. Edges are beveled and polished against a brushed face.
- Screws: real bracelet screws sit flush and take a clean slot. Copies strip and sit proud.
- Clasp: real folding clasp, engraved cross, crisp stamp. Copies look soft and shallow.
- Quick release: the real 5500V strap pops out with a latch. Copies use spring bars.
- End link fit: real links meet the case with no gap. Copies show gaps and rattle.
Price tiers
- Quartz copies: under $100. Easy to spot.
- Asian 7750 copies: $200 to $500. The common tier.
- Higher tier builds: $500 to $900. Fewer factories build Vacheron Constantin than Rolex or Audemars Piguet.
No tier reproduces the caliber 5200. The movement is in-house and carries the Hallmark of Geneva. A copy can match part of the case and dial. It cannot match the movement.
Checklist before you buy
- Confirm the reference number against the real catalog.
- Measure the case diameter with calipers. 42.5 mm for the 5500V.
- Listen for a tick. A tick means quartz.
- Inspect the rotor finish and the hallmark engraving.
- Time the power reserve over two days.
- Test the strap latch at both lugs.
- Compare serial numbers against the paperwork.
Legal note
In the United States, trafficking in counterfeit goods is a federal crime under 18 U.S.C. 2320. Customs can seize shipments at the border. Selling a counterfeit watch can also bring a trademark suit under the Lanham Act.