Short answer
A replica Rolex Day-Date with a black dial copies the look of Rolex references 128238 (36 mm) and 228238 (40 mm). It is not made by Rolex. In the United States, selling or trafficking in counterfeit watches is a federal crime under 18 U.S.C. 2320. A first offense carries up to 10 years in prison and a $2,000,000 fine for an individual.
What the real Day-Date is
Rolex launched the Day-Date in 1956. It was the first wristwatch with the day of the week spelled out in full, paired with a date window at 3 o'clock. The current 36 mm model, reference 128238, has a solid 18k yellow gold case, a fluted bezel, and the President bracelet. The 40 mm model is reference 228238.
Specs of reference 128238
- Case: 36 mm, 18k yellow gold, 100 m water resistance
- Movement: calibre 3255, automatic, 70-hour power reserve
- Rate: -2/+2 seconds per day, Superlative Chronometer certified
- Bracelet: President, three-piece semi-circular links, concealed Crownclasp
- Dial options: black onyx, black sunburst, black with diamond hour markers
Black dial types
Black shows up on the Day-Date in three forms. Onyx is a cut stone disc with no sunburst. Black sunburst has a brushed radial finish that shifts under light. The third type is a black base with diamond-set hour markers, and a diamond-set bezel on some references.
Onyx dials on vintage Day-Date references such as 18038 and 18238 in yellow gold are the closest match to the modern black look. Stone dials were dropped from most references, so a black onyx Day-Date today is a vintage or special-order item.
How replicas differ from the real watch
- Metal: the real case is solid 18k gold. Most replicas use 316L stainless steel with gold plating a few microns thick. Plating wears through at the clasp and crown.
- Weight: a real Day-Date 36 on the President bracelet weighs about 175 grams. A plated steel replica lands between 110 and 130 grams.
- Movement: calibre 3255 runs 70 hours per wind. Replica movements, most often Asian clones of the ETA 2836 or a decorated 3255 copy, stop at 38 to 42 hours and do not hold chronometer rate.
- Day and date discs: font weight, letter spacing, and the midnight flip are the fastest tells. Genuine discs use a serif close to the Rolex house typeface.
- Dial: real onyx is a sliced stone with natural variation. Replica onyx is printed or resin.
Legal status and resale
US Customs and Border Protection can seize counterfeit watches under 19 U.S.C. 1526, and the shipment is destroyed. Auction houses, including Christie's and Sotheby's, do not accept counterfeits for sale. Resale value on a replica is close to zero. A genuine Day-Date 128238 holds a large share of its retail price on the secondary market.