A replica Type XX chronograph is a copy of the Breguet Type XX, the French military and civilian pilot chronograph introduced in the 1950s. The best replicas pair a 38 mm to 42 mm stainless steel case with a hand-wound or automatic chronograph movement, a 30-minute totalizer, a running seconds subdial, and a rotating 12-hour bezel. Buyers judge them by dial legibility, pusher feel, subdial alignment, and whether every chronograph function actually works.
What Defines the Type XX Chronograph Design?
The Type XX name covers Breguet pilot chronographs built for the French air force and navy, later sold to civilians. The classic spec calls for a black dial, luminous Arabic numerals, a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, small seconds at 9, and a 12-hour rotating bezel. Some references add a date window and a flyback function that restarts timing with a single pusher push.
Which Movements Appear in Replica Type XX Chronographs?
- Seagull ST19: hand-wound, column wheel, based on the Venus 175. Smooth pusher action at 21,600 vph.
- Meca-quartz (Seiko VK64 and similar): instant reset, low cost, no sweeping seconds hand.
- Clone ETA 7750 or 7753: automatic, 12-6-9 layout, thicker case, running seconds at 9.
- Lemania-derived: closest to the originals, rare, and priced far above typical replica money.
How Do You Spot a Low-Quality Replica Type XX?
Look at the small details first because they expose cheap builds fast. Misaligned subdial hands, printed rather than applied numerals, missing anti-reflective coating, hollow end links, and a bezel with backplay all signal a budget copy. Check the caseback engravings and the lume: weak, uneven glow on the hands and markers is a common flaw.
What Case Sizes and Materials Should You Expect?
Genuine Type XX references run roughly 38 mm to 42 mm, so a replica in that range sits correctly on most wrists. Solid builds use 316L stainless steel, sapphire crystal front and back, a screw-down caseback, and 50 m to 100 m of claimed water resistance. Skip 44 mm and larger unless you specifically want the modern Type XXII look.
Is a Replica Type XX Chronograph Worth Buying?
It is worth it if you want the vintage pilot chronograph look without vintage prices, and it is not worth it if you expect a genuine Breguet movement or collectible value. Expect about $150 to $400 for quartz, $250 to $600 for a solid ST19 build, and $500 and up for high-grade automatics. Servicing a mechanical replica can cost more than the watch itself, so buy from a seller who offers a warranty.
Do Replica Type XX Chronographs Have a Working Flyback?
Most do not. Standard start, stop, and reset functions work on the common movements, but a true flyback needs a specific caliber that rarely appears in replica form. If a listing claims flyback, ask for a video of the function in action before you pay.
What Should You Ask the Seller Before Buying?
- Exact movement name and beat rate.
- Case diameter, thickness, and lug width.
- Crystal material and coating on both sides.
- Lume type and whether it is applied or printed.
- Warranty length and return policy.