Short answer
A fake Explorer II is a watch built to look like a Rolex Explorer II by a factory with no link to Rolex. Copies sell for about $50 to $600. A new Explorer II reference 226570 lists at about $9,600 in the US. Rolex sets those prices and changes them, so confirm the current figure with an authorized dealer.
Genuine Explorer II references
- 1655, 1971. First Explorer II. 38 mm case. Fixed steel bezel with 24-hour numerals. Orange 24-hour hand.
- 16550, 1985. Sapphire crystal. Caliber 3085. First white dial.
- 16570, 1989. 40 mm case. Caliber 3185, then caliber 3186 from 2007.
- 216570, 2011. 42 mm case. Caliber 3187. Orange 24-hour hand and orange seconds hand.
- 226570, 2021. 42 mm case. Caliber 3285. 70-hour power reserve.
Case and dial checks
Measure the case. Explorer II 216570 and 226570 models measure 42 mm across the bezel. Reference 16570 measures 40 mm. A copy that claims 42 mm often runs 41 mm or 43 mm.
Look at the crystal at 6 o'clock. Rolex added an etched coronet to sapphire crystals in 2002. The mark is about 1 mm wide and shows under angled light.
Read the rehaut. Six-digit Rolex models print ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX around the inner ring, with the serial at 6 o'clock. Fake engraving sits shallow, off center, or repeats the wrong letter count.
Check the lume. Rolex uses Chromalight, which glows blue. Many fakes glow green or fade in minutes.
Check the cyclops. Rolex magnifies the date 2.5 times. Copies magnify 1.5 to 2 times, and the date sits off center in the window.
Movement checks
The Explorer II beats 28,800 times per hour, or 8 beats per second. A watch that ticks 6 times per second holds a 21,600 vph movement, not a Rolex caliber.
The 24-hour hand sets on its own. Pull the crown to the first position and turn it. On calibers 3185, 3186, 3187, and 3285, the 24-hour hand moves in one-hour steps while the minute hand stays put. On many fakes the 24-hour hand is fixed to the hour hand.
Power reserve runs 48 hours on calibers 3185, 3186, and 3187, and 70 hours on caliber 3285.
Caseback, bracelet, and clasp
- The caseback is solid steel. A display back is a sign of a fake.
- Modern Explorer II bracelets use an Oysterlock clasp with a 5 mm Easylink extension.
- End links sit flush against the case. Gaps of 0.5 mm or more point to a copy.
- The clasp carries a model code and a date code.
What high-end fakes get right
Copies at $400 to $600 use clone movements such as the VR3186 and SH3186, which copy the Rolex 3186 layout. Case size, dial print, and bracelet feel can match the original in photos. A photo check alone cannot confirm a watch.
Verification steps
- Open the caseback at a Rolex Service Center or an authorized dealer.
- Match the serial on the rehaut, or between the lugs on older models, to Rolex records.
- Check the rotor and balance bridge against the caliber number.
Boxes, papers, and receipts do not prove a watch is genuine. Fakes ship with copies of all three.
Limits
Some fakes pair a genuine case with a clone movement, or a genuine movement with a fake case. No checklist covers every build. A watchmaker with the watch in hand gives the final answer.